Killaloe and Ballina
A twenty minute drive from Tuamgraney brings you to Killaloe, sitting where the River Shannon narrows out of Lough Derg and joined to Ballina by an old stone bridge. Once the seat of Brian Boru, its history runs deep, through the cathedral, the old fort and the river itself, and there's no shortage of good places to eat and lovely shops along the way.
Brian Boru's Fort
Just a mile north of Killaloe is Béal Ború, the ringfort believed to be the childhood home of Brian Boru, Ireland's most famous High King, and one of those rare places where you can genuinely stand where history happened. It sits on a wooded spur of land right where Lough Derg narrows into the River Shannon, a setting so striking it's easy to see why Brian chose it. The fort dates back to the 11th century, when this was the heart of his power as he ruled all of Ireland from his nearby palace at Kincora, and excavations have shown people were drawn to this very spot as far back as the Stone Age. Today it's a quiet, tree shaded mound, but stand here for a moment and it's hard not to feel the weight of it, a thousand years of history with the same river still sliding past below. Free to visit, unguided, and well worth the short walk in.
River Cruises
Killaloe River Cruises take people out on the Spirit of Killaloe for a one hour cruise up the Shannon and into the calm of Lough Derg that is great fun from the moment you step aboard. James, who hosts the trips, has a way of making everyone feel instantly at ease, with plenty of good humour and great stories about the lake along the way. There is a bar on board, so grab a drink and get comfortable while Slieve Bernagh and the Arra Mountains roll past on either side. Dogs are welcome, children sometimes get a go at steering, and it all adds up to a properly enjoyable hour on the water. The cruises run from April to October, please book ahead at killaloerivercruises.com
St Flannan's Cathedral
Right in the heart of Killaloe stands St Flannan's Cathedral, and it is well worth stepping inside. Completed in 1225 on the site of an even earlier church, it holds some genuinely remarkable things, including a 12th century Celtic cross and a beautifully carved Romanesque doorway considered one of the finest pieces of stonework of its kind in the country. Just beside it is St Flannan's Oratory, a tiny stone roofed church from the 12th century that has been in use for the best part of nine hundred years. The doors are open daily, Sunday service in St Flannan’s is at 11.30am and is normally a celebration of Holy Communion. There is also a celebration of Holy Communion each week on Thursdays at 10.30am in the beautiful Chapel of St Paul. Additionally, there are special services throughout the year. stflannanscathedral.ie
Farmers Market
Every Sunday from 11am to 3pm, the riverside spot known as Between the Waters in Killaloe fills up with stalls.
You can browse the stalls packed with locally grown fruits and vegetables, fresh meats, cheeses and eggs, sourdough bread, vegan and vegetarian delights, olives and pesto, authentic Indian curries and spice mixes, fresh-cut flowers and potted plants, artisanal teas and coffees, wicker ware, local honey and beeswax candles, sweet and savoury crepes, and so much more. Or sit down and enjoy a breakfast roll or a burger from Rigney’s Farm, a curry from Mohindar, a falafel wrap from Aileen, a bowl of veggie stew, or a nutritious salad. Take the weight off your feet and enjoy a cup of tea or coffee while observing the beautiful views of the Clare Hills and the River Shannon.
McConnell Knitwear
If people ask us where to find jumpers, we send them to our friend and colleague Anne in Killaloe. McConnell is an Irish knitwear brand with a strong focus on heritage and craftsmanship. Rooted in the traditional work wear of Irish fishermen, the collection brings together traditional techniques and contemporary shapes. Natural yarns and hand finished details run through every piece, giving the knitwear a relaxed and timeless feel. Her flagship store is in the same building as the tourist office and is open Tuesday to Saturday, 11am to 3pm, May to September. Groups of 10 and more can be accommodated at other times, to book please call Margaret at +353 (0)83 8535899. Alongside her own knitwear, Anne also stocks a range of other Irish gifts, so you are in the right place if you are looking for something more than a jumper. .
Get active at Twomilegate
Twomilegate is the starting point for a good few ways to get active by the lake. For swimming, the bathing area at Ballycuggeran has a jetty and proper facilities, with a marked off area in the water so swimmers have their own space away from boats. There is a big grassy area alongside for lying out in the sun and a café for coffee and treats. Westlake Aqua Park runs an inflatable obstacle course out on the water. Each session lasts 50 minutes and includes a wetsuit and buoyancy aid, with lifeguards supervising throughout. The park is open weekends from late May, then daily through July and August. Booking is essential on westlakeaquapark.ie
For a proper hike, the path up Moylussa also starts from here. It is Clare's highest point, and a fierce climb, but the view down the length of the lake at the top makes it worth the effort.