Mountshannon and Inis Cealtra
A short drive north from Tuamgraney brings you to Mountshannon, a quiet harbour village on Lough Derg, and from there out onto the water to Inis Cealtra, also known as Holy Island, one of Ireland's most remarkable early Christian sites.
Mountshannon and where to eat
Mountshannon itself is a small lakeside village on the western shore of Lough Derg, set against the backdrop of the Slieve Aughty Mountains. It has long been a favourite for anglers and sailors, with a working harbour, one small garage for food and petrol, and a pace of life that suits a place built around the water. A community market takes place on the first Saturday of each month, except January. For food, Berrytree Café on Lakeside Close does excellent homebakes and creative, fresh dishes in a cosy spot near the harbour. The Snug on Main Street is known for its pizzas, tapas and salads, and Cois na hAbhna is a good option for a traditional pub meal. There's also the café at the Inis Cealtra Visitor Experience, with views across the lake. A few other cafés and pubs are dotted around the village too, so it's worth a wander before settling on somewhere.
Holy Island
Inis Cealtra, known as Holy Island, sits about a kilometre offshore in Lough Derg and has held history since the 6th century. The name translates as Island of the Burials. Uninhabited but far from empty, it holds the ruins of six churches, a 24 metre round tower, high crosses, a holy well, a kissing stone, and graveyards still in use today, with coffins still brought across by boat for burial among the ancient stones. St Caimin founded a monastery here, which drew Viking raiders before Brian Boru defeated them. From 1607 until the mid-19th century the island was a noted pilgrimage site, with pilgrims walking around it seven times as penance, until the practice was brought to an end in 1846. In August 2024 it became the final resting place of Edna O'Brien, who grew up in Tuamgraney and came home to the island at the end. The only way to get there is by boat from Mountshannon harbour, a crossing made for the best part of fifteen centuries.
Holy Island Boat Trips
Trips can be booked at the Inis Cealtra Visitor Experience, with boats going three times a day. Alternatively, Holy Island Boat Trips run hourly from Mountshannon Pier, weather permitting, from April to the end of September, no pre-booking necessary. These tours are run by Gerard Madden, a native of Whitegate who has been ferrying visitors to the island for over thirty years. Ger has written several books on local history, including one on Inis Cealtra itself, and edits the East Clare Heritage journal, so he brings a deep well of knowledge to the crossing. Visitors often mention how much he adds to the trip, sharing stories and history along the way that make the island's past feel close at hand. Call +353 (0)86 87 49 710 for more information.
The Visitor Centre
Just opposite the harbour you'll find the Inis Cealtra Visitor Experience, housed in a beautifully restored 1905 rectory overlooking Lough Derg. The interactive exhibition explores the story of Holy Island alongside pilgrimage more broadly, in early medieval times and its modern parallels today, both here in Ireland and further afield. It also tells the story of Mountshannon and Lough Derg itself, and the people who have shaped this part of East Clare, musicians, historians, artisans and novelists among them, along with the region's local flora and fauna. There's a café upstairs with lake views, and a garden to sit in when the weather allows. Open April 4th to September 27th 2026, 10am to 4.30pm, admission free for the season.
Find out more at iniscealtra.ie
Mountshannon Beach
Right beside the harbour is a shallow Blue Flag beach on the shores of Lough Derg, where you can swim in clear freshwater with views across the lake and Holy Island sitting out there in the middle. It is a small shingle strand tucked among lakeside woodland, sheltered and calm, with a lifeguard on duty during the summer months. There is plenty of grass for setting up a picnic or just lying back in the sun, and the water is calm enough for children to paddle safely near the shore. A shop sells ice creams and other bits, and there are toilets close by too. Worth bringing a towel, and maybe a book if the weather is on your side.
Aistear Park
Take a walk in the peaceful Aistear Park. This 4.5 acre park is located in the middle of Mountshannon Village and has plenty to keep the whole family entertained. Appreciate the hundreds of trees, shrubs and flowers as you take a wander through the park. There are a number of features that the kids will love, including the playground and the maze. Designed to pay homage to Ireland's spiritual history, the maze has numerous artifacts and relics that pave the way from prehistoric Ireland right through to the modern era. All of these artifacts and relics have been replicated from actual architectural finds and stay true to the history of the land. It is a perfect way to get close to nature and appreciate Ireland's vast and varied history.